By Christine Graf
Siro’s in Saratoga opened for the season on July 10 with a new executive chef, Albany native Noah Frese. A second generation chef, the Christian Brothers Academy graduate received his culinary training at the International Culinary Center in New York City. His father, James Frese, is a well-known Capital Region chef.
Upon graduating from culinary school, Frese worked at Bar Boulud in New York City, training under Chef Daniel Boulud. A French chef and winner of multiple James Beard Awards, Boulud owns numerous eateries throughout the world. His restaurants in New York City have received a total of four Michelin stars.
After working for Boulud, Frese moved to Charlotte, North Carolina, where he ran a Spanish tapas restaurant. Returning home to the Capital Region, he served as the executive sous chef at 677 Prime before moving on to the Roosevelt Room in North Greenbush.
Named one of the “Rising Star” young chefs at the Albany Chef’s Food & Wine Festival, Frese has lofty expectations for himself in his new role as executive chef at Siro’s.
“My plan is to bring it back to the fame it used to have,” he said. “My goal is to make Siro’s the top restaurant in the area. I want to make it a fun, energetic place. I want you to feel that when you walk in the door.”
Frese’s kitchen staff will include sous chef Grayson Spittler and pastry chef Julia Aiello, both of whom worked with him at the Roosevelt Room.
“I have a great crew, and Julia’s pastries are really truly amazing. She’s phenomenal,” he said. “Julia is known for her pavlovas (a type of meringue dessert), and she’s going to do a cocoa dusted pavlova with a sour cherry compote. She’s also going to do a sweet corn crème brûlée
According to Frese, the Siros’ menu will feature some of his signature dishes.
“I am bringing with me some of my staple dishes that I created a name for myself in the area with. There’s a Spanish chopped salad and a filet mignon with Bordelaise sauce, fondant potatoes, a shallot marmalade, and blue cheese frites. The raw bar outside will also have some of my staples—my Wagyu hot dogs and tuna rice bites.”
Frese also plans to re-introduce some popular Siro’s menu items of the past including the lobster tortilla.
“We will also continue to do an awesome veal chop, and I’m going to do it with a cherry pepper sauce. We’re also going to have some really nice cuts of steak (from Allen Brothers), and we’re talking about bringing in a Wagyu tomahawk for two,” he said, noting that particular attention will be paid to beautiful plating. “We will also have a Siro’s sushi roll, and a really nice sea bass with a sweet corn emulsion, lobster and some summer truffles.”
The menu will also include squid ink fungilli pasta with uni butter and shrimp as well as Frese’s favorite childhood dish—sausage and broccoli rabe in a white wine garlic sauce served over homemade cavatelli pasta.
After the Siro’s eight-week season ends, Frese will decide what is next for him in his career.
“Right now, I’m super excited and grateful to be here,” he said. “I’m taking it day by day and keeping my options open, but I would like to open my own place.”